登录 注册

2018年的希腊之旅

发布于 8-6 09:50 十六番网页版

前言:

最近朋友Chris一家去希腊旅行,英文部分是Chris 写的游记,在此分享给大家。我拣着重点简单翻译了几句,细节部分请以原文为准。

--- Charmaine

正文:

After a 30 hour trip via Sydney, Xian (China), Rome, Athens and finally the Greek island of Santorini (the spiritual home of Ouzo).


奔波了30个小时,历经悉尼,西安,罗马,雅典,我们最后终于到达了希腊的圣托里尼岛(乌佐酒的精神家园):



Between flights in Xian, I was tapped on the shoulder and interviewed for about an hour on my failure to register with the police on my previous visit about a year-and-a-half ago. Thankfully my wife did some fast talking and got me off the hook. I resorted to the ‘dumb westerner’ look that would evoke pity from the most hardened Chinese bureaucrat. Here is the ‘now necessary’ letter-of-invitation I need to get a visa into China. i.e. (from her Dad), “I’d like to invite my incredibly gifted, handsome and intelligent son-in-law, who’s a helluva nice guy and a barrel of fun (not-to-mention dynamic in-the-sack) to partake of this fine land’.


在西安转机时,我被盘问了一个小时 --- 因为我上回,在一年半以前来的时候忘了去公安局报备。谢天谢地,能言善辩的老婆大人解救了我。我赶紧摆出“愚蠢老外”的模样,试图让最铁石心肠的官员也忍不住心生怜悯。岳父大人夸张的邀请信也帮了大忙呢!


We had planned a few days in Santorini and the bulk of our time in Athens; it should have been the other way around. The beautiful whitewashed cliff-faced dwellings (some carved from the rock) and famous blue-domed churches cut anastonishing figure. We were met on a cliff-face by a man-in-white who spoke no English and seemed to think we were the people we were and picked up all of our 35kg of luggage on his shoulders and headed down the cliff with us scrambling after him (despite our protestations). Minutes later we were shown our accommodation and left to wonder if we were in the right place. Our ‘room’ had a surreal look that seemed to stop time. Sort of like the final ‘apartment scene’ from Stanley Kubrick’s 2001 A Space Odyssey.

我们原计划在圣托里尼岛待几天,然后在雅典多呆一阵子。后来发现其实应该反过来。

圣托里尼岛的房屋大都建在悬崖边上,它们有着举世闻名的美丽白墙(据说是为了抵御夏日的超强阳光),有些房子像山洞一样是从石头上开凿出来的,这些白色建筑和著名的蓝色圆顶教堂(以及蓝色的泳池和爱琴海)融合成一幅让人窒息的美丽画卷。



我们约好在悬崖边跟一位不会说英文的白衣男子见面。他好像很肯定我们就是他要接的人,一把就把我们那个35公斤的行李箱抗在肩上向悬崖下走去,丝毫不理会我们跟在他的后面抓狂。几分钟后,到了一个公寓房间。还没反应过来是否这就是我们预定的房间,人家就已经消失了。我们的“房间”有点像Stanley Kubrick在 2001年导演的影片 A Space Odyssey里面最后的那个房间场景 -- 有着超现实主义的外观,仿佛要让时间静止。


电影里的模样:



我们的酒店






我和娃在酒店的露台写游记:



露台全貌,找到帅哥了吗?


Some of the local sights on Santorini include the ‘blackbeach’, ‘white beach’ and ‘red beach’ all somewhat spectacular in their own way. This is the small village that marks the ‘red beach’.

圣托里尼岛上的一些当地景点包括“黑色沙滩”,“白色沙滩”和“红色海滩”。这些景点都各具特色,非常壮观。这是一个标志着“红色沙滩”的小村庄:



We walked to Thira to find the legendary ‘blue domed church’ but there were so many of them we’re not sure if we found the right one. Here is one anyway.

我们步行到锡拉岛寻找传说中的“蓝色圆顶教堂”。



但是太多这个模样的教堂了,我们不确定自己是否找到了正确的那个。不管咋说,就这个吧:





We topped off our Santorini visit with visits to the local monastery (with it’s all-of 8 monks), Akrotiri excavations and wineries ending with the Santorini sunset over the distant mountains.

我们在圣托里尼岛的最后行程是去参观当地的修道院(有全部的8名僧侣),看Akrotiri 的史前村落遗址,去酒庄,并以眺望远山的日落而画上句号。







史前村落遗址:



圣托里尼岛的日落:





圣托里尼岛的特产 Fava豆:



很好吃的 Tamato ball:

Next, Athens..

下一站,先回雅典,然后去“天空之城”...


A mere five hours by train from Athens, you stumble across the quaint little town of Kalabaka whose six monasteries form the entire basis to all of their tourism.

从雅典坐火车差不多五个小时,就到了古色古香的卡拉巴卡(Kalabaka)小镇。小镇有六座修道院,这里所有的旅游景点都是围绕着这些修道院的。


Now when I say five hours, this can be stretched out to 10 hours mentally if you happen to have a loud mouth Greek grandma with the physique of Donald Trump sitting next to you. She managed to batter her way through my noise cancelling headphones to the point of me considering puncturing my own eardrum.

虽说只有5个小时,但真心感觉有10个小时那么长。在火车上,碰巧有一个长着川普身材的大嗓门希腊老奶奶坐在我旁边。她愣是有本事穿透我的降噪耳机,吵得我想自残成个聋子。

Oddly enough, the couple of extra locals in our train cabin hung on her every word which dashed my hopes of some kind of collective indignation shaming her into silence. Instead her sweet delicate rasping baritone never missed a beat.

更惊奇的是,我们车厢里其他的几个本地人竟然一点不嫌她烦,我本来还指望大家同仇敌忾一起用厌恶的表情让她闭嘴呢。相反,她开心地呱噪了一路。

By the time we arrived it was still morning and we dumped our bags at a tiny 150 year old lodge with two suites (one of which was ours)and 6 rooms. The lodge, like Kalabaka was something out of a Greek postcard.

到达小镇时,仍然还是早上。我们下榻在一个有着150年历史的小酒店酒店只有2个套房和6个标准间。我们住在其中的一个套房里。跟卡拉巴卡小镇一样,酒店也像个希腊明信片:


The six monasteries (one of which was abandoned due to lack of monks) were built into the tips (or side) of the rock pinnacles that pervade the entire landscape. We prepared for our assault on all six, five of which we completed on day 1 and the remaining so-called ‘hidden monastery’ on day 2 . The hidden abandoned monastery was the hardest to get to having to trudge through unmarked bush to get there. Not a single sign or marker. After several wrong turns I had flashbacks to New Zealand a couple of years ago when my son and I lost our way coming off a mountain hike as we considered using our mobile to call for help. We eventually found our way as I did here thanks to stumbling into a small group on their way back from the monastery.

六座修道院(其中一座由于缺乏僧侣而被遗弃)都被建造在岩石尖峰的顶部(或侧面),形成了独特的景观:






我们计划好要参观所有的六个修道院。第一天就完成了五个,第二天去了最后一个所谓的“隐藏的修道院”。最后这个隐藏的废弃修道院是最难走到的,需要穿过没有任何标记的丛林到达那里,真的是一个路标都没有。有好几次都转错了弯。这让我想起几年前,去新西兰时,跟儿子在登山时迷路,差点要用手机求救。幸好我们遇上了一群刚好从修道院返程的人,帮助我们找对了路。

Our trek to the Grand Meteora was spectacular complete with comprehensive Greek risk management policy. That’s me trying to get a good shot.

六大修道院里最著名的大迈泰奥拉(Grand Meteora)的确让人震撼。跋涉过去也是一件需要做好风险管理的不易的事呢。


我在大石头上挥手:



我正在取景:


This is a different monastery in another direction. They were all spaced far enough away for solitude but close enough to ‘borrow the odd cup of sugar’ when needed.

下面这张是向另一个方向望去,看到的另一个修道院。这些散布的修道院彼此距离不远不近,既可以保持自己的私密性,又可以必要时“借杯糖”。



We were told the largest monastery of the six, the ‘Grand Meteora’ has a less-than-grand total of eight monks. I had the irresistible pythonesque urge to loudly pound my armoured fist on the door and yell ‘In the Name of the Knights of the Round Table I demand entry to this fort’. (from which a French-accented voice emnates ‘no chance English bed-wetting types’).

作为六个里面最大的修道院,大迈泰奥拉总共也只有八个僧侣。站在这里,想象着自己身穿铠甲,顿生想要砸门的冲动:“我以圆桌骑士的名义要求进去….” (然后里面就传来法国腔:“滚!尿床的英国佬”)


Once inside their monastery, I found their stash. A collection of vintages and casks no doubt lovingly produced in the traditional way. Do these guys know how to party or what? Probably more fun than poring over Greek apostolic versus.

进到修道院里,我看到了采收的葡萄,传统酿制的酒,以及酒桶和酒罐。


Then I found their other stash. I love the nice decorative touch on the topshelf. I overheard that these were themonk’s enemies; I didn’t think that monks were supposed to do that.

接着我又发现了他们另外的收藏。我比较喜欢架子最上面一层的装饰。我听到有人说这些头骨其实是僧侣的仇人们。不过我觉得僧侣们不该这么做吧。


I’d prefer to believe that this is actually the ‘member’s room’. Far simpler than an honour board.


我更愿意相信“官方”说法:这些头骨属于以前去世的僧侣。“会员室”比“荣誉榜”还是更容易让后人接受吧。

We said goodbye to Athens with a trip to the Acropolis. I must admit it was impressive. If this was any other native English speaking country they would not let you get even as remotely as close.

离开雅典前,我们去了卫城。卫城的确很美。如果这是在任何母语为英语的国家,他们都不会让你这么近距离的观赏。


老婆大人:


It’s hard to imagine how something this auspicious (along with allegedly creating democracy) could have been the product of the same country we were in today, many gyp artists, thieving taxi drivers and a third world economy. Especially taxi drivers who cheat their way into a 10-15 euro premium claiming they’re entitled to it despite signs at the airport saying 38 euro is the maximum fare. They hold your luggage hostage until you payup after which they attempt to short change you another 5 or 10 euros if you’re not careful. (Especially at night when it’s hard to see).

很难想象这样一个幸运的国家同时也拥有着满大街的吉普赛艺人,不诚实的出租车司机和第三世界国家的经济状况。特别是出租车司机,总是会多要10-15欧元。尽管机场的告示牌写着出租车收费最多38欧元。他们会扣住你的行李,直到你付款,如果不小心,他们找钱时还会再少给你5或10欧元。(特别是在晚上,你看不清时)。

I had to get even for the rip-offs. Greece was going to pay :-) . At the Acropolis I feigned breathing difficulties, kneeled down and pocketed a piece of their beloved Acropolis. A quick back-of-the-serviette calculation shows that if several million visitors a year do the same, the whole hill should be gone in just several decades, Ichortled to myself.

我想过“报复”。 在卫城时,我假装呼吸困难,俯身捡了一块他们深爱的古石放在兜里。我很快在餐巾纸背面计算了一下,如果每年来这里的数百万游客都这样做,整个山头都会在几十年内消失--- 我想想还是算了吧。





My final revenge was to head to the Greek Parliament and watch the changing-of-the-guard which I must admit was pretty entertaining. I love men-in-tights.(Doing a bit of the ‘John Cleese department of silly walks’).

最后前往了希腊议会,观赏守卫换岗。我必须承认还是挺好玩的。我喜欢男士穿紧身裤。(然后做一些John Cleese 式的“低能走路”)。

But seriously, it’s hard to imagine how something as grandas the relics of Athens could have been constructed thousands of years ago let alone survive the onslaught of nature (and tourists like me). BTW, camera buffs, forget mobile phone cameras, pockets and regular SLR lenses if you’re interested in serious photos. If you’re going to take a photograph similar to above, you NEED a 12mm wide-angle lens. Anything over this isn’t going to cut it. Below wide images were shot with Nikon’s12-24mm SLR auto focus.

说真的,很难想象,这些几千年前建造的雅典古迹,如此宏伟,竟然能够在大自然(以及像我这样的游客)的冲击下保存完好。另外,如果你想拍到真正的好照片,请不要用手机,袖珍相机,或者普通的单反镜头。如果你想要拍出类似上面的照片,你真的需要一个12毫米的广角镜头。任何高过这个数的镜头都不好使。下面的宽幅图像是用尼康的12-24mm单反自动对焦拍摄的。(当然,放到手机里,也没差了)




【完】


欢迎关注我的微信公众号"悉尼之慢生活" --- 更多精彩内容关于生活,关于悉尼,关于快乐,关于爱......


1 收藏 0

此文章暂无评论

返回顶部
建议反馈
下载App APP二维码
提交反馈

用微信扫描此二维码即可联系16番

在微信中搜索“baume002”也可找到我们

微信反馈